Week 8: 3D Printing and Scanning¶

Objective:¶

This week, the adventure continues with a deep dive into 3D printing and scanning. The tasks were split into both group and individual assignments:

Group Assignment:
- Identify the requirements for different 3D printing machines and filaments.
- Perform a test on two 3D printing machines.
Individual Assignment:
- Design a 3D piece adhering to specific design requirements.
  - Print the design using either the Creality K1 or Ultimaker 2+ 3D printing machine.
- Scan an object using the Scaniverse application.
  - Print the scanned object using either the Creality K1 or Ultimaker 2+ 3D printing machine.

As mentioned in the last two week’s posts (you’re following along, right? 😉), our batch is a big one, so we were divided into three groups: CNC Machining, 3D Printing, and Molding & Casting. This grouping helped us focus on gathering valuable insights for our final projects. This week, I found myself in the 3D Printing and Scanning group, and I couldn’t be more excited! 😄

Group Assignment: The Magic of 3D Printing 🧙‍♂️¶

Before we dive into the main point of our assignment, let’s take a moment to appreciate the marvel that is 3D printing. Imagine holding in your hand an object that didn’t exist just a few hours ago. That’s the magic of 3D printing—transforming digital designs into tangible reality! ✨

Types of 3D Printing 🏭¶

3D printing isn’t a one-size-fits-all technology. Different methods exist, each with its own applications, benefits, and limitations:

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM): This is the bread and butter of 3D printing, especially popular for hobbyists and small-scale manufacturers. FDM printers like the Ultimaker 2+ and Creality K1, both of which are available at FabLab, work by heating up a plastic filament and extruding it layer by layer to create a 3D object. It’s reliable, cost-effective, and perfect for creating functional parts or prototypes.
Stereolithography (SLA): A step up in terms of detail and finish, SLA uses a laser to cure liquid resin into solid layers. While the results are stunning, the process can be a bit more complex (and messier) than FDM.
Selective Laser Sintering (SLS): If you need something more industrial, SLS is the way to go. It uses a laser to fuse powder particles into solid structures, making it great for creating durable, complex parts.
Digital Light Processing (DLP): Similar to SLA but with a different light source, DLP is known for its speed and precision. It’s excellent for printing detailed models, especially for industries like dentistry or jewelry.

Filament Types: The Ingredients of 3D Printing 🍝¶

The material you feed into a 3D printer (a.k.a. filament) can make or break your project. Here’s a quick rundown:

PLA (Polylactic Acid): This is the go-to filament for beginners. It’s easy to print with, has a nice finish, and is biodegradable! But it’s not the strongest or most heat-resistant option.
- Advantages: Biodegradable, easy to print, no toxic fumes.
- Disadvantages: Brittle, low heat resistance.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): This is a tougher, more heat-resistant alternative to PLA, commonly used for functional parts.
- Advantages: Strong, durable, heat-resistant.
- Disadvantages: Warping, emits fumes when heated.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol): A good middle ground between PLA and ABS, PETG is strong, flexible, and easier to print than ABS.
- Advantages: Strong, flexible, water-resistant.
- Disadvantages: Can be stringy during printing.
TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane): If you need something flexible, TPU is your filament. It’s often used for items like phone cases or wearables.
- Advantages: Flexible, durable, impact-resistant.
- Disadvantages: Tricky to print, requires careful settings.

FDM: The Workhorse of 3D Printing 🏋️‍♂️¶

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) is the most common type of 3D printing. It works by feeding a spool of plastic filament (like PLA or ABS) into a heated nozzle that melts the material. The printer then extrudes this melted plastic layer by layer onto the build plate, gradually building up the desired object.

The beauty of FDM lies in its simplicity and versatility. From intricate models to functional parts, FDM printers can do it all. Plus, they’re relatively affordable, making them a favorite in makerspaces like FabLab.

Slicing: The Pre-Print Ritual 🔪¶

Before you hit “print,” your 3D model needs to be “sliced.” No, we’re not talking about dicing veggies here; slicing is the process of converting your 3D model (usually an STL file) into a series of 2D layers that the printer can understand.

The slicer generates a G-code file, which contains instructions for the printer, including layer height, print speed, temperature, and more. It’s a critical step that directly affects the quality of your print.

Why STL? Because It’s Simply the Best! 🏆¶

STL (Stereolithography) files are the standard format for 3D printing because they’re simple, widely supported, and versatile. They describe the surface geometry of a 3D object without any color, texture, or other attributes. This simplicity makes them ideal for slicing and ensures compatibility with most 3D printers.

Creality K1 vs. Ultimaker 2+: The Showdown! 🥊¶

Both the Creality K1 and Ultimaker 2+ are fantastic FDM printers, but they each have their own strengths:

Creality K1:
- Advantages: Larger build volume, faster printing speed, and a heated bed that helps with adhesion.
- Disadvantages: Slightly trickier to calibrate, and the larger build volume can sometimes mean longer print times.
Ultimaker 2+:
- Advantages: Extremely reliable, excellent print quality, and user-friendly interface.
- Disadvantages: Smaller build volume and slightly higher cost.

Choosing between the two depends on your project’s needs. If you’re working on larger prints or need speed, the Creality K1 is your go-to. For smaller, detailed projects, the Ultimaker 2+ might be a better fit.

Layer Height and Extrusion Width: Fine-Tuning the Print 🎛️¶

Layer height determines the resolution of your print. A smaller layer height results in finer details but takes longer to print. On the other hand, a larger layer height prints faster but with less detail. It’s like choosing between watching a movie in HD or SD.

Extrusion width is the width of the filament laid down by the printer. It affects the strength and smoothness of the print. A wider extrusion width can make your print stronger, but too wide, and you might lose some of the finer details.

Shells, Infill, and Supports: Building the Perfect Print 🏗️¶

Shells refer to the outer layers of your print. More shells mean a stronger object but also a longer print time. Think of them as the walls of a building—the more you have, the sturdier it is.

Infill is the material inside your print that adds strength and stability. Different patterns (like honeycomb or grid) offer different balances between strength and weight. Higher infill percentages make your print stronger but use more filament and time.

Supports are temporary structures that hold up parts of your print that would otherwise collapse due to gravity. They’re crucial for printing overhangs or complex shapes. Once the print is finished, supports are removed, revealing the final object.

Other Essential Tips and Tricks 🛠️¶

Bed Leveling: A perfectly level bed is crucial for ensuring that the first layer sticks properly. Many printers, like the Creality K1, come with automatic bed leveling, but it’s always good to double-check!
Temperature Settings: Make sure your nozzle and bed temperatures are set correctly for your chosen filament. Incorrect temperatures can lead to warping or poor adhesion.
Cooling: Proper cooling can make a world of difference, especially when printing with PLA. Too much heat can cause stringing, while too little can lead to weak prints.
Brim and Raft: Adding a brim or raft to your print can help with bed adhesion, especially for models with a small footprint.

3D Printing Showdown: Creality K1 vs. Ultimaker 2+ 🖨️¶

In this week’s assignment, we set out to compare two popular 3D printers, the Creality K1 and the Ultimaker 2+, to see which one could deliver the best results with the same design. Both printers are well-regarded in the 3D printing community, but we wanted to put them head-to-head and see how they perform with identical settings and a single test model. Let’s dive into the results and see who comes out on top!

Test 1: Preparing the Model¶

Choose the Design: We began by selecting a 3D model from the internet. The design was chosen for its simplicity and subtle complexity, making it perfect for testing both 3D printers’ capabilities.
Slice the Model: The STL file was imported into two different slicing software programs—Creality Print 5.1 for the Creality K1 and Ultimaker Cura 5.8.0 for the Ultimaker 2+. We adjusted settings such as layer height, infill density, and support structures to ensure optimal printing conditions for each machine.

Test 2: The Battle of the Printers 🥊¶

After prepping the same design in both slicers, it was time to put the printers to the test.

Creality K1:

The Creality K1 effortlessly printed the model, producing a result that was smooth and detailed. The layer lines were barely visible, and the overall finish was impressive. This printer handled the curves and intricate parts of the design with precision, making it a standout in this test.

Ultimaker 2+:

The Ultimaker 2+, despite its reputation for precision and detailed models, surprisingly fell short in this test. The final print showed noticeable roughness and unwanted “hairs,” which detracted from the overall quality. While the Ultimaker usually excels in producing highly detailed models, this time it didn’t meet expectations.

Conclusion: The Unexpected Champion 🏆¶

While the Ultimaker 2+ is often praised for its precision, in this particular test, the Creality K1 outshone it in every aspect. The Creality’s print was smoother, more detailed, and free of the roughness and imperfections that appeared in the Ultimaker’s output. This goes to show that even the most reliable machines can have their off days—or perhaps the Creality K1 is just that good!

Individual Assignment: Test Printing with Creality K1: Putting Theory into Practice! 🧪¶

Alright, let’s dive into the main point of the individual assignment where I put the Creality K1 through its paces. This wasn’t just any ordinary test print; I chose a model that would challenge the machine and show off its capabilities—or so I hoped! Here’s how it all went down:

Step 1: Choosing the Design 🎮¶

For this test, I selected a design that was both practical and challenging: three PS4 controller handles, complete with the iconic PS4 logo. The object was lengthy, which meant it needed to be printed alone due to its size. I found the design online, making sure it had enough detail to really test the printer’s resolution and precision.

Step 2: Slicing the Model 🍰¶

With the design ready, I imported the STL file into Creality Print 5.1. This is where the magic of slicing happens! Here’s how I set it up:

Orientation: The object was rotated sideways to fit properly on the print bed.
Material: Grey PLA filament was the choice of the day.
Infill: I went with an 18% infill—enough to provide structure without wasting too much filament.
Supports: None! I decided to go support-free to see how well the printer could handle overhangs and complex shapes on its own.

The slicing process converts the 3D model into layers, creating the G-code that the printer reads to build the object layer by layer. This step is crucial because the settings here determine the final quality of the print.

Step 3: Generating the G-Code 💻¶

Once the slicing was complete, the software generated the G-code. This is the blueprint for the 3D printer, containing all the instructions for how the machine should move, how much filament to extrude, and at what speed.

Layer Height: This was set to a fine resolution, ensuring that each layer would be smooth and precise.
Extrusion Width: Carefully calibrated to match the nozzle size and ensure even extrusion throughout the print.

The G-code was then saved and transferred to the Creality K1.

Step 4: The Printing Process 🖨️¶

With everything set, it was time to print! The Creality K1 sprang into action, laying down the first layers with surprising accuracy. Here’s what happened:

Print Time: About 2.45 hours—a decent time considering the length and complexity of the model.
Monitoring: As the print progressed, I kept a close eye on it, checking for any issues like warping, under-extrusion, or layer shifting.

Despite the absence of supports, the printer managed to handle the overhangs well, and the layers adhered nicely, producing a solid, smooth finish.

Step 5: The Results 🎉¶

When the print was finally complete, I was greeted with a smooth, detailed set of PS4 controller handles. The grey PLA filament gave it a sleek look, and the fine layer height ensured that the PS4 logo and other details were crisp and clear.

Overall, the Creality K1 exceeded my expectations. Despite the lack of supports and the challenges posed by the model’s length and orientation, it delivered a print that was both smooth and detailed, making it a successful test! 🎮

And that’s how I took the Creality K1 for a spin in my individual assignment. It was a learning experience filled with valuable insights into the capabilities of this impressive machine.

By following these steps, I ensured that the model was fully prepared for a successful print on the Creality K1. The preparation phase might seem like a lot of work, but trust me, it’s worth it to get a high-quality print!

Individual Assignment: Test Printing with Ultimaker 2+ 🎮: Putting Theory into Practice! 🧪¶

After testing with the Creality K1, I turned my attention to the Ultimaker 2+ for another individual assignment. This time, I had a practical design in mind: a set of three Nintendo Switch single joy-con grips. These grips were meant to make the small controllers more comfortable to hold—essential for any serious gaming session! 🎮

Step 1: Preparing the Design¶

Choose the Design: I found a design online for a joy-con grip that included not only the handles but also the two small buttons needed for each grip—six pieces in total.
Slice the Model: Using Ultimaker Cura 5.8.0, I imported the STL file and made some adjustments. I set the infill to 18%, included supports to ensure the complex shapes printed correctly, and rotated the models to fit the build plate efficiently.

Step 2: Generating the G-Code¶

G-Code Generation: With everything set in Cura, I generated the G-code needed for the Ultimaker 2+ to interpret the design. Cura provides a visual representation of how the printer will build each layer, so I double-checked the layers to ensure no mistakes.

Step 3: Printing with Ultimaker 2+¶

Printing Process: The actual printing took several hours due to the detailed design. I used black PLA filament, which I thought would give the grips a sleek, professional look. The Ultimaker 2+ did its thing, layer by layer, building up the joy-con grips and buttons.

Step 4: Post-Processing and Refining¶

Initial Impressions: Once the print was complete, I removed the supports and took a closer look. To my disappointment, the surfaces were rough, with noticeable hairs and imperfections. The fine details I had hoped for were somewhat ruined, making it difficult to fit the Nintendo Switch controllers into the grips. 😕
Sanding and Filing: Not one to give up, I grabbed some sandpaper and files and started smoothing out the rough spots. It was a tedious process, but I managed to improve the grips’ fit and finish. After some effort, I got the controllers to fit, though they still weren’t perfect.
Final Touches: Unfortunately, working in close quarters with other students on CNC machines meant my workspace was full of debris. The grips ended up with some sand debris stuck in the crevices, but I decided to roll with it and humorously embraced it as a unique design choice. 😂

Despite the challenges, the joy-con grips are now functional, and I learned a lot about the importance of print settings and post-processing techniques. The Ultimaker 2+ may not have delivered the smooth results I expected, but with a little elbow grease, the project came together in the end!

Last update: August 26, 2024